Horse riding in Iceland. Visiting Hestaland 2024

 Published in The Mail 10/24

Riding Icelandic horses is a truly unique experience. No matter how skilled a rider you are, you’ll need to retrain your brain to master the unique Icelandic gait; the tolt. It takes concentration, but as you ride through Iceland's countryside, don’t forget to pause and take in the breathtaking scenery.

Growing up in Ballinasloe, home to the October Horse Fair, horses were an integral part of my early life and by 13, I had my own pony and regularly attended my local pony club. We kept our neighbours horses on our farm too, so a teenager I was very comfortable saddling up with the neighbours kids and going for long rides. Now, as a travel writer I try to incorporate horse-riding in to my holidays when possible. I’ve been lucky enough to horsehide in South Africa on a 5000 acre game reserve, I rode in remote China and in Mendoza, Argentina. I once spent a week trekking through Bordeaux vineyards, but I’ve always dreamed of riding an Icelandic horse. Following the Instagram account "Horses of Iceland" taught me about these unique horses. They come in over 40 colours, with up to 100 variations, and many have two additional gaits besides the walk, trot, and canter/gallop. While all horse breeds perform these basic gaits naturally, the tölt and flying pace set Icelandic horses apart. I messaged "Horses of Iceland" for a trek recommendation, eager to experience the tölt firsthand.

At 16, Gudmar Pettursson left his native Iceland to teach his first international riding clinic in the U.K. By the time he was 20, he had established a successful training business with about 30 Icelandic horses.

He attended Hólar University, Iceland’s premier equine school, where he graduated with honours, getting the highest score for riding, and the highest degree possible below Master Trainer. This is the pedigree of Pettursson’s Hestaland, the ranch recommended to me by Horses of Iceland. It’s set in vast, rugged landscape two hours drive from Reykjavik, and I spent a week horse riding through the Icelandic countryside.

A driver picked me up from Reykjavik airport and drove me to Staðarhús, a remote, rural part of Iceland where the 200-acre ranch is located. Gudmar and his family live in a modern farm house near by and guests stay in the Hestaland guest house. It’s a warm and inviting space with a stylish, communal lounge and dining area. Twelve comfortable, functional ensuite double or twin rooms feed off the central area. Upon my arrival, the hot tub was already bubbling with a couple of friendly American ladies chatting excitedly about the week ahead. We would be joining Gudmar and his team, to herd 60 loose Icelandic horses over 100 km in the coming days. The plan was simple yet ambitious: set off from Hestaland each day with the herd, cover around 25 kilometers, leave the horses at a temporary spot, and return to the ranch for the night. The logistics were well thought out, as precise as possible given the unpredictable weather and the nature of managing over 60 free-running horses. Remarkably, everything ran like clockwork. With a herd this valuable (some of the horses could fetch €15,000 each) there’s a lot at stake.

Gudmar has assembled a world-class team, with his American wife Christina playing an integral role. One of her many responsibilities was feeding the guests, and after long hours in the saddle, her efforts were nothing short of award-worthy. Each night, we were treated to fresh Icelandic cod, whole leg of lamb, and ever changing, inventive salads, accompanied by traditional desserts like Icelandic wedding cake. After 5-6 hours on horseback, hearty meals like these were much needed to refuel. The rest of Gudmar’s team was made up of mostly women, which was surprising to me. The harsh weather and sheer manual effort required on these treks call for strong, agile riders and I assumed, wrongly, that it would be male dominated. I quickly realised most of the guest riders were women too.

At the communal evening dinner table, guests sat side by side, sharing our stories. I was the only Irish guest, joining a young English journalist, five American women, two German couples, and a Canadian named Jill, who had done the trek before and even bought an Icelandic horse from the ranch. On the first night, I realized I was one of the few who hadn’t ridden an Icelandic horse before, let alone owned one. Though I’d read about their special gaits, I hadn’t anticipated how much I would need to adjust my riding style to master the tölt. 

Alongside Charley, the English journalist, I practiced in the arena adjacent to the guesthouse. Gudmar chose horses for us, and we were asked to trot around. The first noticeable difference was the stirrup length; for Icelandic riding, you extend the stirrups for a long-legged position. To experience the tölt—trust me, you want to, as it’s far more comfortable than trotting—you sit deep in the saddle, lean back, and “switch gears.”

I was not a natural. Despite years of riding experience, I felt awkward, as though I had never been on a horse before. Humbled, I wondered how I would survive the week! The trail involved crossing fast-flowing rivers and climbing rocky terrain, so I needed to feel confident. Fortunately, Gudmar’s choice of horse suited me well. Pearl, my horse, seemed to understand exactly what I wanted with just the slightest shortening of the reins.

The next day, we saddled up and set off from Hestaland at a brisk tölt. I noticed that when Pearl tölted, she glided effortlessly—all I had to do was sit back and relax into the saddle. She did all the work! While the tölt takes more energy for the horse than trotting, it’s a natural gait for Icelandics. Gudmar and some other riders led the herd, setting the pace, while I joined the rest of the team at the back, carefully herding the stragglers and taking in the breathtaking scenery.

Iceland’s landscape is like no other. At times, it reminded me of the depths of Connemara, but then it would open up into vast, canyon-like expanses more akin to the Grand Canyon. The black lava fields, perfectly shaped volcanoes, and the sheer isolation gave the scenery a surreal, otherworldly quality—almost like something from a sci-fi movie. It’s no wonder so many films are made there.

We were incredibly fortunate with the weather. Five out of seven days were dry, though there was a strong wind at times. But the sun shone most of the time. One morning, we took the horses to the Löngufjörur coast without the herd, and it was truly a cinematic experience. Gudmar cantering along the open shore while a pair of eagles soared overhead—it was like a scene straight out of Game of Thrones, though Gudmar looked more like an Icelandic Mad Max with his full-length wax coat billowing in the wind. 

The Icelandic horses were not only hardy and reliable but also full of character. Over the week, I learned to trust Pearl entirely. She knew the terrain better than I did, and she was always in tune with the subtle shifts in weather. Whether we were crossing rivers or climbing steep inclines, she remained steady and surefooted.

The tölt continued to baffle me at times but I found myself more in sync with Pearl, able to switch between gaits with increasing confidence. There’s something incredibly gratifying about mastering this unique riding style and the memory of riding through the black sands, and rocky, misty valleys with these incredible horses will stay with me forever.

Hestaland offers more than just a riding holiday—it’s an immersive experience into Icelandic culture and landscape. We spent our days riding, eating, and living outdoors, only enjoying home comforts each night back at the ranch. This trip is ideal for anyone with decent riding ability, keen to spend hours in the saddle surrounded by jaw-dropping scenery. Icelandic weather is unpredictable, so bring warm layers and waterproofs, though Hestaland is fully equipped and generous providing gear and guidance. Strict rules are in place to prevent contamination of the purebred Icelandic horses, so any riding clothes you bring must be thoroughly disinfected, with full instructions provided upon booking.

For horse lovers, adventurers, and those who enjoy the thrill of the unknown, this is a dream trip. It’s particularly great for solo travellers, as you become part of a team the moment you arrive. Hestaland also offer training courses and many other kinds of horse-riding experiences including single day rides from the ranch.

While this journey may feel like a once-in-a-lifetime experience for some, I am determined to do it all again very soon.

For all trails and events: hestaland.net 

For more information on Icelandic horses: horsesoficeland.is

• PLAY fact box details:
• PLAY is the leading low-cost Icelandic airline that offers roundtrip flights direct Dublin Airport

Passengers can fly return from London Stansted to Iceland Keflavik from £76, flights operate seven-times weekly. Prices are inclusive of taxes with flights bookable online at www.flyplay.com