South Downs travel feature: The Mail Published 08/2024
Going Down South!
South Downs and its surrounding areas offer incredible richness and variety. I often visit places where I can't bring my dogs, so when an opportunity arose to take my two senior rescues to this lush part of the UK, I jumped at it. Flying from Ireland to Sussex is a quick flight to Gatwick, and after an hour’s drive, you’ll be surrounded by the rich natural beauty of the South Downs National Park. If you are driving from Ireland, one of the UK's most scenic roads is the A272 going east to west through the South Downs. I travelled with my dogs and chose three distinct experiences over the long weekend.
Tinwood Estate
Our first stop was Tinwood Vineyards, located in the heart of Sussex near the historic Goodwood Estate. Tinwood Estate is a good spot for wine enthusiasts and nature lovers. Situated near the historic Goodwood Estate, Tinwood Vineyards offers several newly built cabins nestled within the vineyards, providing a practical option for guests who want to enjoy a few glasses of sparkling wine without worrying about driving home. As a solo driver, I appreciated having the option to stay the night.
The dog-friendly cabins open out onto the vineyards, offering a lovely view. The cabins themselves are comfortable, with modern amenities and a cosy feel. My dogs enjoyed the outdoor space, exploring the vines and the peaceful surroundings of the vineyards made for a good start to our trip.
Of course the appeal of staying on a vineyard is getting to experience the wines direct from the source. Tinwood has three excellent sparkling wines and offers tastings and tours, where you can learn about the winemaking process and the history of the estate. Sitting on the cabin’s private deck, sipping a glass of sparkling rosé, watching the sunset over the vines was a great way to unwind but the highlight of the stay was the delicious continental breakfast delivered on our doorstep the next morning, in a stylish wicker hamper.
For lunch and dinner, there’s a selection of small plates from their Vineyard Kitchen restaurant. The opening hours are 9:00 am –17:30pm. Note: No food available on-site after 5.30 p.m.
www.tinwoodestate.com
Goodwood Estate
Nestled in the picturesque countryside of West Sussex, the Goodwood Estate blends history, luxury, and natural beauty.
Home to the Dukes of Richmond since 1697, Goodwood is set on 11,000 acres of the beautiful South Downs. It’s much more than a stately home and host to various festivals; it’s a hub of activity, offering a range of events and experiences throughout the year, not least one of Goodwood's most famous events, the Festival of Speed, held every July. This event transforms the grounds of Goodwood House into a motorsport heaven, attracting car enthusiasts from around the world. The festival showcases a wide selection of cars, from vintage models to cutting-edge modern vehicles, and includes races and exhibitions. There’s also the globally renowned Goodwood Revival; a vintage festival where attendees can immerse themselves in the nostalgia of vintage car racing, vintage planes, motorbikes, retro mechanic shops, and more. It’s a unique experience where guests from all over the world gather, sharing their love of all things vintage.
in May, Goodwood hosts Goodwoof, the best known dog festival in the UK. This joyous event celebrates everything canine, offering activities and attractions for dogs and their owners. Of course, Goodwoof keeps it stylish; and guests can sip champagne in the Taittinger Bar or enjoy a luxurious Fortnum & Mason picnic hamper on the grounds.
In June, the racecourse prepares for the Qatar Goodwood Festival, affectionately known as 'Glorious Goodwood.' During this five-day festival visitors can enjoy food, entertainment, and world-class horse racing against the stunning backdrop of the South Downs.
Along with offering daily tours and afternoon tea in the stunning main house, Goodwood offers several other dining and accommodation options, including the four-star boutique Goodwood Hotel close to the main house. For anyone looking for a more intimate stay on the estate, there are some picturesque rental cottages with picket fences and private gardens.
The Kennels, which originally housed the hunting hounds, is now the central clubhouse for all of Goodwood Estate's members and has wonderful quirky dog-themed interior touches throughout.
Restaurants include the Farmer, Butcher, Chef, known for its high-quality, locally sourced produce, including meat from Goodwood’s organic farm.
Golf enthusiasts will love Goodwood’s two distinctive 18-hole courses and a new short-game course. The Downs course offers a rigorous test, while The Park is more gentle. The new short course, The Copse, is now open, and the Goodwood Golf Academy offers various lessons and tuition packages.
Goodwood is so much more than just a historic estate; offering a vibrant destination with a diverse range of experiences, making it a unique destination for motorsports fans, dog lovers, horse racing enthusiasts, foodies, and golf aficionados.
Adhurst Farm
I used dog travel experts www.pawsandstays.com to find a dog friendly off-grid experience in the area. I wanted to experience the great outdoors, but with some modern comforts. Just 30 minutes drive from Goodwood, Adhurst Farm in Sheet, Hampshire, is an idyllic spot offering tranquility and plenty of rustic charm. This is deep in the countryside, and be prepared for no electricity, a sawdust loo, and an alfresco shower! There is hot water, down duvets, feather pillows, and a gas stove for cooking, but you really are at one with nature and need to have a few basic survival skills. One of the standout features of each yurt is the eye catching Godin wood burner. Imported from France, this cylindrical stove is designed to burn slowly through the night, ensuring a warm and cosy atmosphere; as long as you are able to light it.
There are six luxury yurts and one private cabin on the estate and before you think it's too rustic, take note that the interiors are super stylish, furnished with iron bedsteads, one has an antique chaise longue, another has a stunning antique slipper bath.
All yurts have a private safari-style kitchen, fully equipped with a 2-burner gas-fired hob, all necessary cooking implements, cast iron cookware, plates, bowls, and glasses. There are outdoor fire pits and BBQs and if it rains, guests can pull the firebowl under the canopy to continue enjoying the warmth of the campfire. You just need to bring your favourite foods and a few other essentials listed on the website. I got such a sense of achievement from making a pot of coffee and boiling some eggs! Bear Grills would have been proud.
Seasonal beauty enhances the experience, with daffodils in April, bluebells in May, and sweet chestnuts in late September. Just sitting on the porch and listening to the chirping of birds and the gentle rustling of summer leaves felt otherworldly but if you want to explore beyond the farm, there are cute little wooden signs to help you navigate and a 20-minute walk leads to The Queen’s Head pub in Sheet Village. A scenic loop takes you to the unique Harrow Inn pub in Steep and back, completing the circuit in about an hour.
The scenery here is breathtaking and it was a privilege to be able to stay so deep in the heart of South Downs. It’s a rare blend of tranquilly and comfort, and an ideal retreat for anyone looking to escape everyday life and reconnect with nature.
Paws & Stay is a travel website for dogs and their humans, from the teams behind Sawday’s and Canopy & Stars. Paws & Stay thinks that dogs deserve holidays too, so they’ve set out to discover the best self-catering holiday cottages that don’t just tolerate dogs but are made for dogs.
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